Jaisalmer, also known as The Golden City of Rajasthan is famous for The Jaisalmer Fort made of golden-coloured sandstone and other famous monuments and buildings. There are many things to do and places to visit in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan. The Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli is one such gorgeous building we visited in Jaisalmer.Â
We stayed in Jaisalmer for three days given our packed schedule. But exploring every nook and corner of Jaisalmer might require at least 5-7 days. We had visited in October so the weather was on the milder side.
But the noons are scorching so we used the morning hours (till 11 am after that unbearable heat) Â and evening time (from 3 pm till night). All hustle and bustle surrounds the Jaisalmer Fort. You will find many good hotels both modern and haveli style here. You can make the booking via any hotel booking website.
Along with the beautiful hill fort, many historic buildings are remarkable for their intricate work and are worth visiting in Jaisalmer. Of all these, the one I liked best was The Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli. It was around 3 pm when we visited the haveli and the building was glowing in the golden rays of the sun as if dipped in honey.
Not only do you get to witness the incredible architecture of the haveli but also there is a museum that has artefacts showcasing the lifestyle and traditions of the Patwans who once lived there. So here is a complete guide to this beautiful Patwon Ki Haveli and also The Kothari’s Patwon Ki Haveli Museum.
A brief history of the Patwon ki Haveli, Jaisalmer
The first haveli was built by a wealthy businessman in the city named Guman Chand Patwa in the eighteenth century and it is said it took nearly 55 years to build this haveli. The Patwon Ki haveli are a series of 5 houses built for each of his 5 sons with great precision and grandeur. Thus, the main haveli is a cluster of five havelis.
The Patwas were very wealthy in their trade of gold and silver brocade and jewellery but with due course in time, they couldn’t keep up with their success. As the legend goes the Patwas went to a priest who advised them to leave Jaisalmer for good as Jaisalmer was not an ideal place for their business and so they left.
It is said that after they left the Patwas gained an enormous amount of wealth and success. The Patwas mainly dealt in gold, silver brocade, banking and finance, gemstone, ivory etc.
Thus, some time later the Patwas were called back by the Prince of Jaisalmer to provide financial aid to the state. Ignoring the Priest’s advice the Patwas returned to their original residence and then they built these five Havelis for each of the 5 sons.
Destiny as it can be said the fortune of the Patwas started dwindling and soon they had to leave the city again and leave behind the havelis at the hands of care-takers.
Later, the caretakers approached Mr. Jeevanlalji Kothari who purchased the first haveli and it was named as Kothari’s Patwa Ki Haveli. The Archaeological Survey of India took over the charge in 1974 and restored the haveli to its present condition.
The Haveli or mansion with its intricate architecture has been preserved well over the centuries in Jaisalmer. A part of the haveli is now turned into a government museum and a part is still owned by the family.
How to reach Kothari’s Patwa ki Haveli
It is situated in the middle of a narrow lane. So after visiting the Jaisalmer Fort, we hired a tempo/auto for Rs100 and it dropped us right at the entrance. We also had a guide who showed us around the museum.
If you are having issues with walking or for senior citizens it is not advisable as one has to climb multiple stories having quite a lot of stairs and the passages are very congested and narrow.
Constructed mainly with yellow sandstone the haveli boasts of having sixty jharokas or balconies. The ones that you can see in most of the old buildings in various parts of Rajasthan. The main reason behind this is probably to allow an adequate amount of airflow and also to keep the building cool throughout the year.
The jharokhas are picture-perfect, you can click many photographs. If you see the architectural pattern it’s a mixture of both Indian and Persian styles.
A tour inside the Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli Museum
Once inside the Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli Museum, you will be transported to a house and a life that looked like hundreds of years ago in Rajasthan. From beautiful mirrors, doors, painted ceilings, and a lot more the inside of the museum will tell you about the grandeur and extravagant life of the inmates.
There are multiple stories and each floor has separate rooms and set up quite elaborately. As I have already mentioned you have to keep a watch on the steps that connect these floors as they are very steep and the passage is quite narrow.
Once inside you can see lavish rooms, antique furnishings, mirrored ceilings and walls and also murals painted everywhere. The house exhibits the lifestyle of the residents. There are dressings, an office room, ladies’ rooms, a kitchen, cooking rooms, etc.
There is also a house temple depiction of the main religion of the household. The patwas were followers of the Jain religion. Jains are mostly businessmen and officials. Even the house temple is decorated with murals painted on the walls and decorated with painted glasswork.Â
The museum also exhibits vintage coins, weights, currency notes, locks and keys, bicycles, vintage betelnut cutting machines, juice-making machines, musical instruments, jars, vintage cameras, etc. Everything is well documented in frames and exhibits.Â
You can also see male and female dolls dressed in traditional Rajasthani attire. The dining room is arranged with cushions or Gaddis in circles laid on the floor, where men and women sit separately. It was more of a personal space for family members but often friends and guests were invited to dine along.Â
While Rajasthan is a land of dry and barren desert land, the turbans and Pagris worn by the men are quite contrasting. The Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli museum displays bright and colourful turbans used by Rajasthani men according to the wearer’s taste and skill.
Mostly the turbans are very colourful like red, yellow, green, and blue against the dry and barren desert land. You shall also notice that the local men wear traditional dhoti and turbans everywhere on the streets of Rajasthan.Â
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View from the terrace is also something not to be missed
When we visited The Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli it was almost afternoon, by the time we ended touring the entire museum it was sunset time. Probably, we had the best sunset view from the terrace of the haveli. Even the terrace is intricately done.
The buildings around looked dipped in honey and also you have a stunning view of the Jaisalmer Fort making everything look magical. It also presents a nice backdrop for photographs. It won’t be wrong to say The Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli is quite an Instagrammable place in Jaisalmer.Â
What is the best time to visit The Kothari’s Patwon ki Haveli?
The best time starts from October to March, in the summer season, it gets extremely hot with the temperature rising to 50 degrees or higher. The Kothari’s Patwa ki Haveli museum opens from 9 am to 6 pm. Entry fees are Rs 100 for Indian nationals and Rs 250 for Foreign nationals last when I visited in 2023. It could have changed now.Â
Even outside the haveli, there is a small market with lots of gift stalls and you can also enjoy traditional Rajasthani folk music sung by a group of men just outside the complex setting the perfect vibe of this heritage spot in Jaisalmer.Â
When we visited we didn’t find the place too crowded so the best time to visit is either in the early hours of the morning or the afternoon when you can witness the sunset glory painting the entire Jaisalmer in a golden hue.Â
