After exploring the narrow lanes of Chandi Chowk, I had some time left in hand, so I decided to take a walk through Khari Baoli, which is Asia’s largest spice market situated close to Chandni Chowk. I am writing this blog to document my journey from the bustling lanes of Chandni Chowk to the aromatic world of Khari Baoli, Asia’s largest spice market. It details the sights, sounds, and atmosphere of this huge market, highlighting the contrasting experiences and the shared heritage it represents within Old Delhi.
Khari Baoli, a popular spice market in Old Delhi, has been thriving for centuries, and its origin can be traced back to the reign of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. It is a busy commercial area in Delhi-6 standing against time, presenting a vibrant medley of history, culture, commerce, weaving together he threats of the past and the present in a perfect symphony.
The market specialises in selling various items along with spices like dry fruits, nuts, pulses, herbs, tea, saffron, papads, pickles, etc. The spices sold here make it’s way to many eateries and also fine dining hotels, restaurants, etc, not just in Delhi but many other states of North India and also abroad. This is also the largest wholesale market for spices.
A market older than Shahjahanabad itself, the capital city built by Shah Jahan, the Mughal Emperor. This lively wholesale spice market is sure to awaken your senses with the mixture of various fragrances of different spices, and the enigmatic chaos resulting from the ongoing trade in every nook and corner of the market. You might not stop sneezing while walking past this market. That’s what this place does to first-timers.
Not just that, you might just be careful while walking, as you might cross paths with porters carrying huge packages on their heads, traders loading and unloading their goods from carriage vans, and customers carrying their purchases in huge shopping bags. It’s a total hubbub going around and typically resembling a busy Indian market in every sense.
How to reach the Khari Baoli Spice Market in Chandni Chowk
The location is very easily accessible; all you need is to get on a rickshaw from Chandni Chowk and reach the end of the main street. Take a right turn, and there you are at the starting point of the Khari Baoli spice market. You can ask the rickshaw puller to drop you a the spice market and he will drop you there at only ₹40.
Nearby Metro stations are Chandni Chowk and Lal Qila, and you can also reach by taking a cab service. To visit the commercial hub in Chandni Chowk, you need to take the street on the right side of Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir, which is also the oldest and quite popular Jain temple in Old Delhi.
A Brief History of Khari Baoli
The existence of the market dates back to the 17th century and and the foundation is said to be laid by Khwaja Abdullah Lazar Qureshi during the reign of Salim Shah, the son of Sher Shah Suri. Historians have also mentioned that this popular trade market dates back to the tenure of Emperor Shahjahan. The construction of the market was finished in 1551.
The name “Khari Baoli” comes from the existence of a Baoli (step-well used for water conservation during ancient times), and Khari means brackish or salty water not fit for drinking, which was rather used for washing or bathing purposes. But now there is no such Baoli present anywhere in the neighbourhood, yet some inscriptions do indicate the existence of one some 400 years back.
As Delhi evolved over the centuries, the architectural landscape also underwent significant transformations, with new buildings replacing the old Mughal structures.
With many other structures came up another market, which the locals named the “Gadodia Market”, built in 1920 by Lakshmi Narayan Gagodia on the southern side of the Khari Baoli Spice market. It’s a three-storeyed building with a rooftop that presents a spectacular view of the Red Fort, Fatehpuri Mosque and the busy spice market.
Delhi’s history is perched well in the walled city of Shahjahanabad with stories of architectural marvels and opulence. There were 14 Majestic Gates, Lahori Gate being the most prominent one that connected Delhi to the road leading to Lahore in Pakistan. Both the Lahori Gate and the Baoli now ceased to exist with the gradual passage of time and urbanisation.
The identity of Old Delhi lies in its rich heritage, aesthetics and historical significance and all of which still exist amidst this rapid modernisation, creating a unique blend of the past and the present. It has a plethora of unique experiences and many visual delights to offer to its visitors.
Walking through the Legacy
The market tends to get very crowded during the working hours of the day. There are a large number of stalls on both sides of the street. Some of them are permanent shops while some set up as street vendors or on “Thelas” (a four-wheeled vehicle for selling various goods and merchandise). Many of the shops in this historic market have been around for generations, with some even exceeding a century in operation.
These businesses represent a living link to the past, preserving tradition while adapting to the demands of modern commerce. The dedication and resilience of these families are palpable, adding to the market’s unique charm.
From the diverse array of stalls and shops to the generations of families who have maintained their businesses, this market is a testament to the enduring spirit of Delhi.
It is not surprising that over the years, the spice market presents delightful frames for photographers and tourists and history buffs. It won’t be wrong to refer to this market as one of the most Instagrammable places in Delhi.
It’s a visual feast that captures the essence of Old Delhi and makes it a must-visit destination for anyone seeking an authentic historical experience.
My experience at the Khari-Baoli Spice-market
The best time to visit the market is in the morning when the shops start opening at around 11 am, the crowd would be less, and the day slightly cooler. The market remains open from 10 AM to 8 PM every day, except Sundays, as the day progresses. My trip to Chandni Chowk was unplanned, a spur-of-the-moment decision fueled by a desire to experience the heart of Old Delhi. I knew vaguely of this bustling market and its historical significance, and the Khari Baoli spice market was a complete mystery to me until that day.
I had booked a walking-tour guide to show me around the narrow lanes of Chandni Chowk. During a random conversation with her, she mentioned this centuries-old spice market named Khari-Baoli. My ears perked up. Spices? History? It sounded like an adventure I couldn’t miss. She gave me a general direction and some landmarks to look out for, which I found easy to navigate through.
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It was Sunday, and she told me the market is typically closed on Sunday. But I decided to try my luck, so I hired a rickshaw and asked him to drop me at Khari-Baoli.
The rickshaw-bhaiyya told me some shops would remain open, and it won’t be a total disappointment visiting on a Sunday. He dropped me off near the majestic Fatehpuri Mosque, pointing towards a narrow lane, “Seedha jaao,” he instructed (“Go straight)”. Walking from Fatehpuri Mosque, I soon found myself at the edge of Khari Baoli.
To my surprise, it wasn’t entirely deserted. I estimated that about 50% of the shops were indeed open, with their colourful displays of spices spilling onto the street. Giant sacks of chillies, turmeric, coriander, and countless other fragrant ingredients lined the narrow pathways.
Without the usual weekday crowds, navigating the market was a breeze. I stopped and admired the vibrant displays, inhaled the intoxicating scents, and even chatted with a few shopkeepers without being jostled by the throngs of shoppers.
It was a unique and unexpected experience; there were colours everywhere, and incredibly vivid. Piles of bright red chillies contrasted against the golden hues of turmeric and the earthy browns of coriander. It was a photographer’s dream, and I spent a happy hour snapping pictures and simply soaking it all in.
Even though it was a Sunday and most of the shops were closed yet the market was quite busy. Porters were carrying huge sacks of spices on their backs, their faces barely visible under the weight. Shopkeepers call out prices, engaging in lively banter with customers.
I too purchased some nuts for my husband, who didn’t accompany me as it was quite hot that day and he preferred staying in the hotel room. Khari Baoli is a working market and is dusty and bustling with activity. It was raining the previous night, so I found the market full of mud and litter. Glad I was wearing proper walking shoes, else it would have been a mess.
Things to remember before visiting the Khari Baoli Spice Market in Old Delhi
The market is huge, and it’s better if you explore on foot, so a pair of comfortable walking shoes is recommended. Carry an umbrella to avoid getting sunburnt if you visit in the summer months. A mask to keep you safe from inhaling all the dust and sneezing due to the exorbitant amount of spices kept and sold openly in the market.
If you are purchasing, don’t forget to bargain. Also, don’t forget to click some photos for your memories. Keep your belongings safe. Stay hydrated. You might need to keep a watch on your feet and head, as there is a lot of loading and unloading of goods taking place, porters carrying heavy goods, and a lot of cow dung here and there, etc, may tend to create a hassle while taking the walking tour.
My walk through Khari Baoli was a beautiful reminder to embrace the unexpected and to find wonder in everyday life. I was captivated by the vibrant energy of this magnificent market in Old Delhi. A perfect example of beauty in chaos. Do let me know if you have visited this place in the comments below, and if you haven’t visited the market yet, I encourage you to carve out some time and dive into the sensory experience of Khari Baoli Spice Market in Delhi-6.
References: Wikipedia.
This place has so much history, story and culture. One of my fav places in Old Delhi.
Thanks for reading