The holy city of Banaras in Uttar Pradesh, officially restored to its ancient name Varanasi on May 24th 1956, is famous for its sacred ghats, temples and one of the ten holiest Jyotirlinga Kashi Viswanath Dham. Banaras, which is also known as Kashi, is one of the oldest living cities situated on the bank of the river Ganga, attracting lakhs of tourists and pilgrims from all around the world. Beyond the innumerable temples, spiritual chanting, temple bells, and the famous Ganga aarti, yet another powerful and aromatic experience in Varanasi is its delectable street food. From crispy hot kachori-sabzi breakfasts to creamy malaiyyo enjoyed only in winter, Varanasi’s food culture is as layered and timeless as the city itself. Almost all the cities of our country are famous for their street foods, and thus, to make the trip more exciting, it is essential to know what to eat when in Varanasi. This Varanasi food guide will help you to eat some of the best local foods in the city.
With the popularity of social media, before I started my trip, I did my comprehensive research on what to eat when in Varanasi. I was totally not interested in any kind of fine dining while in the city; what I was looking forward to was trying the delicious street foods. Varanasi is famous for its chaats, laasi, various desserts, Kachori-sabji, and yes, we can’t forget the Banarasi-paan.
As a Bengali girl who loves to eat and try new dishes, it was a primary agenda for me to taste as many items as I could during my five-day trip to the holy city of India. I was travelling alone, so it was also not possible to eat a lot of items in a single day, so I utilised the morning for breakfast and the evening for the fried items of each day of my trip. In that way, I could taste quite a variety of local food from the streets of Varanasi
Which is the main locality to eat in when in Varanasi?
The walking food tour is probably the best way to explore the multiple lanes of Varanasi and also its local street food. The Godowlia Market of Varanasi is the major commercial hub and also can be called the heart of the city, famous for its 3 km long market lane. All activities are centred here, as most tourists and pilgrims who come to visit Varanasi stay in this neighbourhood, as it is situated near Kashi Vishwanath Temple, and it is also thronged with hotels, homestays, dormitories, ashrams, and whatnot.
The historic market area is famous for silk sarees, fabrics, handicrafts, puja essentials, and idols of various Gods and Goddesses, and thus people like to stay in this locality. The main stretch of the market connects the Daswasmedha Ghat, where on both sides you will find only shops to purchase various things, and also numerous stalls to satisfy your taste buds.
Due to the popularity of this locality, the most iconic food stalls or shops are situated here in the Godowlia Chowk of Varanasi. The market is also a no-vehicle zone; only three-wheeled manual rickshaws run to a specific distance. Due to social media, some food shops have earned so much popularity that you will find them to be super crowded during all working hours.
Ofcourse you will get tempted to try those popular dishes, so patience is yet another key factor here. Most of the food items are very reasonably priced, freshly made and served. I ate so much, but not even the slightest did I suffer from any stomach trouble. That was quite a relief, especially when you are travelling alone.
Along with Godowlia Chowk area, the locality near Assi Ghat is also very famous for its street stalls and other local food outlets. If you are going for the morning Aarti in Assi Ghat, after the aarti finishes, you can dig into some delicious breakfast from the food stalls near it. I had to skip breakfast as I was running late, and I had to return to Dashashwamedh Ghat so that I could continue with the remaining itinerary as I had planned for that day.
In my food tour, I tasted delicious street food from those stalls which were quite viral on social media, as I wanted to know if the hype was justifiable. Next, I visited those shops which were recommended by my friends. Let’s start with this amazing food guide, which will let you know what to eat when in Varanasi and it is based on my personal experience.
The Ram Bhandar,Thatheri Bazar
Well, this place is famous for its Kachori and Aloo Chaane ki Sabzi, best eaten as breakfast. I had hired a guide for two days, who helped me with darshan at Kashi Viswanath Temple and also arranged a heritage walk for me in the narrow lanes of Varanasi. This was the second day of my trip, after offering my prayers at the temple, my guide took me to this small shop situated in the centre of a junction where numerous lanes merged.
I could see a lot of locals had gathered there to pack or dine in the Kachori Sabzi for breakfast. Although fried in oil, it felt quite light on the stomach and very delicious. I also had crunchy and juicy-in-a-bite jalebis. They serve various other items, which you can see in the pic below. You may have to wait for some time, as the day proceeds, the crowd in front of the shop also increases.
Traditional Thalis in a pure vegetarian bhojanalaya
Something quite different yet interesting from the local street food in Varanasi is a traditional thali in a Bhojanalaya. There are a humongous number of Bhojanalayas in Godowlia Chowk. It’s a purely vegetarian locality, so all the Bhojanalayas serve pure veg food. You can also try the Kesariya thali in Kesariya Thaal, situated on the first floor of Hotel Viswanath, where all food is selected from a wide range of items and served on a huge Bronze dish.
The day I reached, I had a traditional Indian Thali for dinner in a restaurant situated on Godowlia Chowk, and another day I had the Thali at a Bhojanalaya also situated in Godowlia Chowk.
Tamatar Chaat in Kashi Chat Bhandar
Probably one of the most viral most stall in our country is the Kashi Chaat Bhandar situated in Godowlia Ghowk, Varanasi. The crowd outside is crazy, right from the time they open till they close, there is never a moment you can comfortably stand their withing someone pushing you from all sides.
I tried for two days, but the crowd was too much to bear. They have a sitting area, but you must be too lucky to get even a tiny space to sit. The 60-year-old establishment with a legacy of serving traditional and authentic Indian street snacks is famous for its Tamatar ki Chaat, cooked in ghee, mashed boiled potatoes and special gravy full of Indian spices.
After trying for two days, finally my time arrived, and I too had a taste of the famous Tamatar Chaat of Kashi Chaat Bhandar. Frankly speaking, I didn’t find it so worthy of the hype, but the taste depends on person to person. You can also try tamatar chaat in Deena Chaat Bhandar. I read in a blog before my visit about this place, but I couldn’t make it. Besides Tamatar Chaat, you can also try Dahi Bhalla, Papri Chaat, Kulfi Falooda, Aloo Tikki Chaat, Chura Matar, Dahi Puri, Bhalla Papdi, Mixed Chaat, Palak Patta Chaat and the menu keeps on going. The shop gained more popularity after it was a part of the recent Grand Ambani Wedding.
Buttery Uttapam Stall of Varanasi
Yet another breakfast special street-side snack is the Firey and quite Buttery Uttapam with a special chutney served on leaf-made plates is a mouth-watering food to eat when in Varanasi. The stall is open from morning 7:30 to 10:30 am in the morning. It is famous for the freshly made Uttapam and Idlis. The huge iron pan is on fire when the cook pours a ladle full of batter of Uttapam, making the cooking style unique. You will find the stall right on the pavement just opposite to Shri Gandhi Ashram Bhandar, in Godowlia Chouraha.
Baati Chokha
It’s quite a compact yet comforting food that you will find vendors selling everywhere in Varanasi, especially along Dhasaswedha Ghat. It is also called Litti Chokha in the Bihar side. It consists of two main elements: the Baati, which looks like round fried balls made of roasted wheat flour and Choukha, which is a mixture of mashed potato, tomatoes, brinjal, onions, garlic and other herbs. It costs around Rs 30 and is quite appetising. The Baatis are full of stuffing made from various spices, crushed pulses and grilled in a fire oven. There are many restaurants which serve this Baati Choukha in a more professional style, but trust me, I found the ones selling on the streets much more delicious.
I had Litti Choukha many times, but I was confused when I heard a man selling Baati Choukha. The food looked the same, but the name was different. I was standing near the street stall when a small boy dressed in the attire of Lord Shiva (which is a common sight around temple areas, asking for alms), whom I met early morning at the Dashashwamedh Ghat. There was innocence in his eyes, but also hunger. “Will you buy me Baati Chokha?” he asked softly. My heart responded before my mind could question anything, and I immediately ordered a full plate for him. After he finished, curiosity — and perhaps the aroma — led me to order a plate for myself. The crispy baati soaked in ghee, paired with the smoky, spiced chokha, was simple yet deeply satisfying. It was rustic, earthy, and comforting — food that felt honest. After that, I too tried a plate of Baati Choukha, and I was so glad I had a taste of it. It is a memory tied to devotion, culture, and cuisine all at once. Baati Chokha was no longer just food. It became a memory.
Malaiyyo
Mailaiyyo is basically milk foam that tastes super light, saffron-tinted, and frothy dessert that looks like sweetened clouds. In some regions, it is also called Daulat Ki Chaat. I had Malaiyyo first time in Lucknow, which is the capital city of Uttar Pradesh. The colour is Pale cream or light yellow, has a foam-like texture and is garnished with pistachios, almonds and sometimes silver varq. It simply melts instantly in your mouth — you don’t chew it, you simply experience it.
Malaiyyo is traditionally made in winter. The milk mixture, when left open overnight in large shallow vessels under the sky it absorbs cold and dew water, which helps in getting that signature frothy texture. It’s churned with a hand vigorously to incorporate air. The mixture becomes airy and is then served fresh with garnishing. I had Malaiyyo from a street vendor in the narrow lanes of Varanasi early morning, after I had Kachori Sabzi in the morning. Eating it feels like participating in a seasonal ritual.
Banarasi Paan- The Cultural Sentiment of Varanasi
A trip to Varanasi is incomplete without tasting the famous Banarasi Paan. Banarasi Paan is more than a mouth freshener — it is a symbol of hospitality, culture, romance, and tradition in Varanasi. Offering paan after a meal is a gesture of warmth, and in Banaras, it is almost a ritual. On every street, you will find shops that sell various kinds and flavours of paan.
You can choose your own ingredients or let them make one of their choice for you. You can try a meetha paan, sada paan, zarda paan, chocolate fusion paan, fire paan and a lot of variants to try from. The Banarasi Paan has also received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for its unique cultural and regional significance in India. It is known for its delicate balance of flavours, an interesting and artistic folding style, use of premium ingredients and a touch of cultural refinement. The iconic Bollywood song
“Khaike Paan Banaras Wala” from the movie Don, starring Amitabh Bachchan, made Banarasi paan famous across India and beyond. After this song, Banarasi Paan became a national sensation.
Lakshmi Chaiwale – Safed Makkhan Toast (Butter Toast and Tea)
Of all the places I had breakfast, this one remains my favourite. I boarded a rickshaw that took me to Lakshmi Chaiwale at Rs 30 from Godowlia Chowk. This is the address CK 56/34, near Chowk Thana, Govindpura, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh 221001. It’s a very popular breakfast place, and you can easily reach here very easily. There was not much crowd when I visited, it was around 8 am. I sat comfortably on a stool and had a delicious breakfast. The Lakshmi Chaiwale is famous for its Makkan Toast and Tea.
Makkhan Toast is fresh butter spread over freshly toasted bread that is so soft and melts in the mouth. This bread butter combo tastes divine with a hot cup of milk tea. Tea costs Rs15 and Makkhan Bread starts from Rs 40 (prices might change now). This tea shop in Varanasi has been doing business for 80 years and remains one of the most popular tea stalls in India. I saw people reading newspapers and sipping piping hot tea, some school students having breakfast, and quite a lot of tourists like me.
Gauri ShankarKachuri wale
Just outside of Lakshmi Chaiwale on the main road is this shop named Gauri Shankar Kachuri Wale. I ordered one plate of Hing ki Kachuri that cost me Rs25. The Hing Kachuris of Kolkata taste very different from this one in Varanasi. Both have unique tastes, although the name is the same. The Kachuris came with a green spicy and sweet red colour chutney that was very delicious. They also sell Plain Kachuri, Khowa Jalebi and Gulab Jamun. I was already full after having three helpings of Makkhan Bread, I would have tasted the Jalebis and Gulab Jamuns.
Lassi and Rabdi
Varanasi is also famous for its Kulhad Lassi topped with malai and dry fruits. Pehalwan Lassi, Blue Lassi Shop, Pagal Sardar Lassi and Baba Lassi are some of the viral Lassi outlets in Varanasi. There are lassi shops on almost every corner of Godowlia Chowk. Some of the lassi shops serve Rabdi with is equally delicious in taste. These shops also serve Kesariya dudh (Saffron flavoured milk) and plain hot milk. Since I don’t drink Lassi, I skipped these shops that are famous for their lassi, but I did eat rabdi (thickened sweet milk), which was mouthwatering.
As my journey through the bustling lanes of Varanasi comes to an end on the fifth day of my trip, it’s clear that this city feeds more than just hunger—it nourishes the soul and heightens your taste buds. From the spicy crunch of kachoris in the narrow lanes of Varanasi to the comforting sweetness of malaiyyo enjoyed at dawn along the ghats of Dashashwamedh Ghat, every bite tells a story steeped in tradition and devotion. The various foods that I ate in Varanasi are not just about flavours, but narrate tales of its legacy, culture, and centuries-old culinary rituals that continue to thrive in its vibrant streets.
Although food preferences and taste vary from person to person, I believe this guide will help you to decide what to eat when in Varanasi. The streets are bustling with eateries, restaurants, and small street stalls, and you will be spoilt with options to choose from. Varanasi is something more than a destination you visit either as a tourist or for pilgrimage—it’s a place you taste, feel, and carry with you long after you leave the city. And somehow, long after the journey ends, its flavours continue to call you back. Hope you liked this post, do share with your friends and loved ones. Also, let me know in the comments if you know any specific shop famous for a delicious snack or sweet.
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